Monday, October 5, 2009

Origins of The Wardrobe Project

It probably makes sense to rewind and describe how I got here-- "here" being 3/4ths of the way towards achieving my 2009 New Year's Resolution.

I like decision rules. And I like personal productivity and organizational systems. Personal productivity and organizational systems that involve decision rules are the best. In late December 2008 I noticed that: A) I had nothing to wear (I'm sure you've never felt the same way staring into the maw of your own closet), and B) nothing really fit, and C) the pretty small closet I share with Paul was already overstuffed and D) My penchant for chronic overshopping at the best thrift store in the world (I love you Quality Thrift!!) had been curtailed by my move from LA to the East Coast and E) I had never actually accomplished a New Year's Resolution that I had set and thought it would nice to give that a try. It seemed like a natural next step to try an achievable NYR that somehow dealt with The Closet Problem in a gloriously transformative way.

Thus The Wardrobe Project (2009) was born. The two-fold goal:

1. Purchase no clothes (or shoes or accessories) in 2009, and
2. Get rid of 52 pieces (i.e, one each week) of existing wardrobe detritus.

This seemed straightforward, easily measurable, and, as Buffy the Vampire Slayer sings, "brave and kinda righteous." After a Victoria Secret semi-annual sale spree for bras and underwear, I kicked off on January 3.

And - it's been totally easy, 99% achievable (2 minor failures will be reported later), and...not at all transformative. This failure to transform is at the root of my motivation to do the p&pg blog. Shouldn't this exercise have left me with a streamlined, elegant, well-fitting, lovely and timeless wardrobe? Shouldn't the sifting of wheat from chaff and the noble feel-goodness of getting rid of so much stuff have catapulted me into a new era of sartorial splendor? Nah. It just left me with an empt(ier) closet and the horror of confronting some particularly bad decision-making that I've made over the past 10+ years. Thus -- Wardrobe Project, Year 2,  which will be recorded, processed, and mulled over in p&pg.

When I mentioned the Wardrobe Project to friends and acquaintances this year, I could expect one of two questions:

1. How did you not buy any new clothes for a whole year??

or

2. How did you get rid of 52 pieces of clothing??

Which of the two questions was posed usually said a lot about the clothing, shopping, and hoarding habits of the asker. I will admit that #1 was harder for me than #2.  A lot of money and MBA marketing power is devoted to encouraging us (by "us" I mean women aged 30-49 with disposable income) to buy a lot of new clothes every year. And do we oblige? The numbers I could find on annual clothing spending were actually surprisingly low:


"We've already stockpiled enough clothes to last us for years. The average annual shopping haul swelled from $1,550 per household in 2002 to $1,760 last year. That spending spree was prompted in part by what the Bureau of Labor Statistics says was a 30 percent drop in real apparel prices over the past decade. With cheap imports allowing a dollar to buy more, the physical bulk of garb purchased by the average household has risen 18 percent in just five years."


Only $1760 per year per household? While that's probably more than my household spends (and why don't I know what our household spends on clothing, BTW?), I definitely thought the average was higher.  Until  The Wardrobe Project (2009), my annual clothes purchasing behavior looked something like this:


  •  About 8 "sprees" at a thrift store or consignment store, during each of which I would buy 4-12 items for a total of about $40-$100 (usually $3-$10 per item.) I would buy mostly casual tops and pants, sometimes a wacky dress or jacket. The low price does create a low purchasing threshold for me -- thrift store items can almost fit, or be almost the right color, or be missing a button, or be so last decade (as distinct from hipster retro), and I'll still buy.  And I wonder why there's nothing decent in my closet...
  •  1 or 2 tormented purchases of big ticket items like boots, a coat, a suit, a formal dress, etc. These purchases are tormented because I have no faith in my ability to correctly select the right item, and because spending more than $40 on a single piece of clothing or pair of shoes makes me anxious and usually a little a nauseated. I usually take a spouse or good friend along, and try to stick to a few trusted stores like AnnTaylor.
  • The above-mentioned early January pilgrimage to Victoria's Secret for exactly 3 bras and 8 pairs of cotton undies. Low sale price always trumps color, style, fabric, or, yes, even fit, so this is not a particularly useful way to buy undergarments.
  • Occasional shoe purchases as needed, usually by mail from Lands End (I'm exactly their Size 7), or at an  upscale shoe store like Benjamin Lovell in Philly or a Dansko/Birkenstock-type store. Unlike the second bullet point above, there is no torment around these purchases, even those that exceed (gulp!) $200, as my Masai Barefoot Technology shoes did.
  • [There is a whole second set of purchasing behaviors for the kids' clothes, but I'll save that for another post. I don't buy clothes for Paul, but occasionally attend him on his infrequent purchasing trips...]
Now - back to the two NYR stipulations: Don't buy, and purge. Not buying was definitely hard, particularly when within striking distance of a good thrift store or when then J.Jill or Title 9 clearence catalog showed up. On the other hand, it eliminated the angst of the big ticket purchases (well, postponed more than eliminated as I now have a backlog of major items that must be purchased in 2010. Like, a winter coat. Don't have one of those...). Purging was laughably easy, mostly because my thrift store purchases were so regularly egregious that it was really easy to offload 50+ items. I'll do another post on how I actually did the purging -- it's all about frequency filing...)


Ok, that was a bit of a ramble, but if there are any actual readers out there, tell me:

1. Which would be harder for you - the no buy provision, or the get rid of 52 pieces provision?
2. Do you have any sense of what you spend on clothing per year? How is it allocated (new vs. used, catalog vs. bricks-and-mortar, casual vs. work vs. fancy, lots of little purchases vs. big splurges; predictable vs. unpredictable???)
3. Is buying clothes fun or a chore? What makes it so?

Today's outfit: Drawstring jeans from ?QT or another thrift store; brown button down shirt that didn't survive the dryer so well; J. Jill shelf bra cami in ?slate or some other brown - purchased in Carmel J.Jill store on sale. Shoes: Dansko clogs, recently replaced when my friend's dog ate one of them.

11 comments:

  1. Definite #1 (no shopping for a year) would be much, much more difficult for me. Purging, which I've been trying to do myself, is easier.

    I'm embarrassed to confess but am sure that I spend more than the average each each -- I'm a Nordstrom/ professional clothes junkie, especially after being out of the workforce for several years. Don't do as much used, though do have some friends that swap items from time to time.

    And buying clothes is fun for me when I feel good about how I look, but a totally drag when everything I try on reminds me of how much weight I really should lose. (Self-image rules!)

    Amy

    P.S.--are you focusing at all on accessories when looking at your wardrobe? Sometimes the clothes take a back seat to a good scarf, jewelry, etc..... (God, I sound like "what not to wear!!!")

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  2. Purging would definitely be easier for me, at least at the moment. I have so much old tired stuff hanging around that ostensibly is just for "exercise" or "gardening",and then of course, there are the "thin" clothes from by-gone decades (am I allowed to write on this blog if I am fifty-something)so if someone said, throw 52 things out pronto, I could do it pretty easily, although my wardrobe would look pretty meager. A real estate agent once looked in my closet and said, is this all you own?! before she could stop herself.

    My mother and my husband and my daughter are all constantly telling me to BUY SOME NEW CLOTHES so you might think it wouldn't bother me to think I couldn't buy ANYTHING for a year, but it feels scarier somehow, because I don't like feeling deprived, forbidden. This is definitely weird, because at the same time, I positively hate, loathe, and dread shopping. I feel totally inadequate, feel everything looks dreadful, refuse the stores that have the mirrors OUTSIDE the dressing rooms, etc.

    I couldn't begin to tell you what I spend on clothes, because as you might imagine, it is usually unplanned and impulsive and done somewhat furtively. I hardly remember because I probably do it in a dissociative state.

    (I don't buy used clothes. I know this is weird, but it has always bothered me. I don't like the way they feel when I try them on and I don't like the way second hand stores smell. All I can think about is all the dead cells clinging to the clothes and all those stories and energy in the clothes that could be good or bad, but it could be bad, so why take the chance?

    Did I say I hate shopping? I think I did. I have a daughter who completely and utterly is at home in this world - she was born with a sense of style and she has no inhibitions about it. She revels in shopping and clothes. It floors me that we are related, and that, at least in this department, my craziness didn't rub off on her.

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  3. 1. Getting rid of 52 things would be harder. Just because it has 3 permanent stains, 2 holes, and is a hand-me-down from someone two sizes bigger doesn't mean it won't cover me when I'm naked ;-) And since I work at home, it's not like anyone's gonna see me...
    2. So far this year I've spent $400 on new professional clothes/shoes from a bricks-and-mortar store (had to get some stuff for a conference) and $150 on new bras by mail order.
    3. I usually put it off and put it off and then dart in and buy what I need. Cringing the whole time. I hate shopping. I have no time. Nothing ever fits right. Blah. I often have an idea in my head of what I want but can't find anyone who makes it to my desired standard. Plus I'm too short for the normal clothes and too fat for the skinny clothes and too grownup for the teenage clothes and too skinny for the fat people clothes. There is no Me Section at the store where the clothes that fit me are kept. Buying clothes is a chore. Conveniently I have a gay best friend who is happy to come along and gives GREAT advice and words of encouragement.

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  4. I think not buying would be harder, but I'm not sure, mainly because I really don't buy clothes all that often. I've bought more in the last year than usual, because I was trying to start dressing like an adult (instead of jeans, polo shirts and sweatshirts).

    As a family, we probably spend on the order of $750 per year on clothes. Most of that is usually for the kids. I try to do the thrift store thing for them, but have gotten burned a few times by thrift store clothes that were already torn (and somehow I didn't notice). It's also massively frustrating to not find what I'm looking for (finding untorn pants for a 9-year-old boy is not the easiest thing, probably because most 9-year-old boys wear out their pants before they outgrow them).

    Buying clothes for myself is definitely a chore, because I am not one of those people who is gifted in knowing what would look good on whom and with what. If I try to bring my husband along for an opinion, it sometimes helps, but then I find myself rushing, since he's obviously not doing what he would ordinarily want to be doing. If I bring my sister or my mom along, I end up feeling as if I'm about 12, which is not good for the self-esteem. Online shopping helps a bit, as long as I'm diligent about returning the things that don't work out.

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  5. It is much easier for me to purge than to stop buying. In fact, I purge compulsively (clothes, not food - sounds like an eating disorder). There is a charity in town that sends a truck around every couple of months, and I give them a big garbage bag full every single time. Now of course, more purging means more closet space means more room for shopping...

    I clothes-shop almost exclusively at my favorite consignment store in Seattle, called Fury. That place is super fabulous, and getting "deals" on beautiful clothes is a special kind of high. After a few months of shopping there, I had to give myself some rules. I'm not allowed to buy it unless I "love it and can't live without it", no matter how cheap it is. Not to say that I don't still make mistakes (hence, the regular purges) but I've gotten better about it by making sure I'm maintaining high standards.

    Good luck with your blog.

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  6. 1. If socks count, getting rid of 52 things would definitely be easier.

    2. According to Quicken, we spent about $1500 on clothes last year. I think it was mainly t-shirts and jeans picked up as part of trips to Costco and Walmart (yikes!) for other things. Speed shopping with a five-year-old.

    3. Buying clothes used to be fun, like having a dinner party or carving a pumpkin. Now it's a chore. (See above.)

    Today's outfit: I'm still in the clothes I ran in--Title 9 pants and a t-shirt that says "mrf," a gift from my brother- and sister-in-law.

    Question for you: How many black sweaters is too many black sweaters?

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  7. Definitely #1 would be harder for me. I'd say I am a moderate shopper. (Don't you think the individuals Real Simple profiles seem to spend an inordinate amount of moola on clothing? Much more than the quoted average expenditures per household per year)?

    Purging is quite easy. Just look at my sock drawer and there's an easy 10-12 items ready to be shed. Plus my cute denim shorts and black Talbots ribbed tshirt from '92...are they really 17 years old???

    I'm a Talbots Petite addict, plus a Lands' End clearance item online purchaser. Both because they are high quality, they fit me, and best of all, I can return them anytime in the future to a real store near (or somewhat near) me. And I have returned items YEARS past when I purchased them. So long as I have my handy receipts.

    Spending in FY2009 (July - June 2009) = $2175.15 for a family of five according to Quicken. Of course, I'm not sure if I categorized all my Lands' End returns so it could be an overstatement, or not.

    I'm wearing a turquoise, 3/4 sleeve Talbots petite knit shirt purchased 2 seasons (maybe 3) ago; Liz Claiborne khaki pants purchased from Ross Dress for Less but my sister pointed out I bought a regular pair of pants that are supposed to be cropped which is why they almost fit me right; Costco underwear.

    I like this blog!

    Melinda

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  8. Not buying would be much harder. I buy and toss a fair amount each year. The buying is almost exclusively work clothes. I find that 18 months later, sweaters are pilled, shirts have stains, and tops are missing unusual and difficult to replace buttons. Would love to avoid this because of the obv environmental costs but can't seem to... Am an _enormous_ fan of the clothing swap with friends for the items that come home and don't fit quite right or don't get worn enough. love this blog AB! xo JN

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  9. Well, this is a very cool idea for a blog. You have hit on something we all think about, but very rarely discuss.

    I only buy clothes a few times a year, and do so all in one fell swoop. I shop in just a few places, primarily where they carry petite sizes. This includes J.Jill (not YET owned by Talbots, by the way, but most likely will be), Talbots, and Nordstrom. I want to buy things I love and will wear like crazy, and most of what I buy I actually do end up liking. As these clothes have a definite look to them, it is easy to put together all kinds of outfits that have some relevance to each other.

    I don't shop in thrift stores myself, as it just takes too much effort for me, and more forethought than I can muster. I am very good at getting great buys from the back end of the catalogues and at sales at the store itself. For some weird reason I can usually buy clothes that fit well on line, and sometimes I like the fit bettter than I do when I try it on. I DO give away a lot of clothes, and do a complete closet purge every summer. But I do keep clothes for awhile. I still have a great Benneton gray cardigan that looks new, and there hasn't been a Benneton store open for ages. Some clothes are very durable. I send every piece of my kids clothes to relatives with same sex children. (And mine are the same sex, so I always feel like a good investment is worth it for the kids, as both will end up wearing them.

    I do keep track of my purchases on Quicken, but there is no way I am admitting the figure here. Apparently we are way off! I go shopping with my husband and see what he likes and I like to see what he is trying on so I can offer advice re color and style, which he is very open to admitting that he needs.

    OK--my outfit today is: Talbots skirt bought at clearance sale for $20 worn about 300 times, white Talbots 3/4 sleeve tee, JJill striped sweater, Nordstom Mary Janes bought on-line that I stand in all day and are SO comfortable. They say "Soft Walk" inside and that is true advertising.

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  10. Purging would absolutely be more difficult for me. There are a few reasons for this:

    1) I'm pretty much anti-fashion. I buy something I like, it works, and I wear it until it falls apart or until I realize that I truly don't care for it anymore. I have clothing from high school and college that I still wear regularly. Unless otherwise required, I pretty much only wear jeans and t-shirts anyway.

    2) I only enjoy shopping for clothes in certain contexts--in Japan, at thrift/vintage stores and when buying fun t-shirts. The rest of the time, I find shopping for clothes at best a bother and at worst somewhat torturous.

    3) I collect clothes to some extent, like I collect many other things. And although I am excellent at deaccessioning items in my other collections (CDs, books, Japanese toys, transit tokens, postcards, etc.), I won't let go of clothes, either because I don't want to have to shop again or because it seems strange to get rid of something with potential use.

    I'm guessing I spend about $300 on clothing per year, some of of it on replacing necessities that have fallen apart (jeans and other things I hate buying), the rest in fun splurges on t-shirts, vintage dresses, and so forth.

    I already addressed this, but unless it's in the fun contexts mentioned above, I hate shopping for clothes. The period that I lived in Japan was the only time I enjoyed it and was even remotely fashion-conscious. I think it stems from a lack of interest in much of anything but jeans and t-shirts, and, to be honest, bad childhood memories. My mother sewed, cared about fashion, and didn't think I looked good in anything.

    Also, I buy my undergarments in exactly the same fashion as you!

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  11. I did do a "clothes fast" and started 2008 with a purchase of new underwear to kick off the project. It wasn't actually that hard and I even carried it over to this year until about June when I just had to go to QT! Plus, I probably gave away more than half of my wardrobe over the year and a half just because for me buying nothing somehow made it easier to give things away.

    This whole process was made a little easier by friends who gave me some choice outfits when they heard I wasn't buying anything, or else figured I'd be less likely to say no to their hand-me-downs since I wasn't purchasing my own stuff! A word about a clothes fast--technically you could say a fast meant I shouldn't have accepted gifts, hand-me-downs or my inaugural trip to QT where my friend purchased items for me, but really my project began as more of a way to save money than about not acquiring so I could rationalize it!

    I have a love/hate relationship with clothes so shopping for them is about the same. Time and money is a factor, and I don't quite have enough of either so I am a bit ambivalent about it all.

    Lea

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