Sunday, October 11, 2009

Inductive wardrobing

What do we want our clothes to do for us?

I'm traveling this weekend, and it was with greater-then-usual mindfulness that I packed my suitcase on Thursday night. What was going in the suitcase (actually a tote bag) and why?  Here were some competing priorities that had to be optimized:

1. Fit everything for 3 nights + 3 days into a tote bag.
2. Have suitable outfits for a range of events: two nice-ish dinners out, one meeting with colleagues, running around with kids, airplane travel, etc.
3. Accommodate an uncertain weather forecast  -- maybe rain, maybe cold, maybe hot.
4. Oh, and look nice. Feel fashionable. Feel comfortable. (Are these three mutally exclusive?)

Here's what I ended up with:
Long swirly blue skirt + Blue 3/4 sleeve t-shirt that almost matches it
Brown J.Jill tank + brown button down shirt + cropped brown tencel pants + brown 3/4 sleeve J.Jill t-shirt. ( I wore the pants almost every single day on a 3-week trip to Hawaii - they are awesome).
Two scarves
One red SS v-neck t-shirt

So -

1. It all fit in the tote bag, with room for jammies and toothbrush but not for knitting
2. I was underdressed for my meeting at Duke, but ok for everything else.
3. I've been either cold or hot for most of the weekend.
4. Only comfortable. Not the other two. Also - a lotta brown.

This is when I start to consider the "only one designer" fashion system approach. My sister has promised to write a guest blog post about her transition to "Eileen Fisher only". She argues that it makes both shopping and getting dressed very easy - everything matches/coordinates with everything else, etc. It's so tempting! It also seems to go along with the Real Simple must-haves approach: Follow this set of rules or acquire this list of items and you will have all the ingredients you need. It's both deductive and potentially reductive, right?

I initially thought that Wardrobe Project II (2010) would take that form: Choose one designer (I favor J.Jill or Boden at this point), acquire 3-4 pieces per season, and dump 10-12 other non-compliant items at the same time. It wouldn't take long to do a complete changeover. In reality, I have neither the budget nor the conviction to go this route. Is there another way?

Reading through everyone's comments on earlier posts, I notice:
1. Many of us have decided our wardrobes are blah, boring, tired, lack color.
2. At the same time, we know what we like, what works for us, etc. We have several treasures in our closets that work really well.
3. When we are contemplating the deaccession decision, we're pretty clear about what should stay and what should go.
4. We crave wardrobes that work harder for us, that accomplish some of those intangible transformative functions, but lack time, money, and maybe confidence to acquire those wardrobes overnight.

I also loved Lea's comments about "shopping her own closet" after pulling some pages from the Boden catalog that reflected her concept of what looked good, what would suit her. I totally do "basement shopping" with the kids when the seasons turn, but haven't thought of this cool extension for myself.

So...all of the above has hatched an idea I call "inductive wardrobing".  Can we reflect on what we've got in the closet, what we're drawn to in catalogs or store windows, photographs of ourselves or mirror checks that make us think, "Hey, that  looks good!", and compliments we've received--- and from *those* data draw up a set of principles or guidelines for future purchases, outfit assemblage, or suitcase packing?

I just spent 2.5 minutes sitting with my eyes closed contemplating this, and came up with a few rules:

1. I strongly prefer 3/4 sleeves.
2. I like v-neck tops, preferably in darkish colors
3. Cropped pants rule - better than shorts or long pants
4.  I love Jackie/MadMen era jackets - cropped, big buttons, 3/4 sleeve, interesting collars. Ditto for cocktail dresses.
5. Skirts need to be just at knee or longer, either A-line, bias cut, or narrower if they go with a jacket. Big swirly skirts are ok with a simple, slim top.
6. Sleeveless dresses/tops are *not* so good (Michelle O I'm not). Some exceptions apply, usually if the neckline is interesting, drapy, boat-necky, etc.
7. I favor "ethnic" tops and outfits (Indian mostly)

Could this replace the RS list? What proportion of unsuccessful clothing purchases in the past 10 years could have been avoided if these guidelines were stuck to? (And, related, how much of current wardrobe could be chucked to comply with above?). Also - I realize that I am still basically a color idiot and have no certainty/confidence about what colors work. (Despite my mother & sister's best efforts. Apparently I'm a "spring".)

So -- will you give it a go? Try a 10-minute inductive wardrobing session and tell us what principles/insights emerge!

3 comments:

  1. My problem with this approach: it's already the case that every time I go clothes shopping, I find myself selecting more versions of something I already own. So I end up with four (five? six?) white button-down shirts. I don't need more versions of what I already have: I need to fill in gaps. But I can never find exactly what I'm thinking of, so I buy... another white button-down shirt instead.

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  2. Al- How did I only just now discover this blog? So many things to think about, especially for a fashion-addicted, thrift store loving, clothes hoarding, style lover.

    One of he major realization I had when thinking about your "inductive approach" is that I do try to listen to feedback and also follow my own path. I also had the sad realization that my main audience is/has been the men in my life. (Ugh..the feminist in me cringes while writing.)

    The truth is that when I had a man in my life who gave me no positive feedback about my wardrobe choices but who clearly preferred things on the drab side of the spectrum my clothes reflected it.

    Now, my husband encourages me to wear whatever I feel happy, sexy, good and hip in. He rejects the idea that we are ever "too old" for certain looks, and this has given me an incredible sense of freedom and perspective.

    On another note, I have also recently packed for a long (two week) trip and faced the conundrum of what to bring. I mad the bad choice of letting the bag dictate or me. I picked the biggest duffel I could find and then proceeded to fill it to the brim-just because I could. I now realize that I have far too much and it is become a true hassle to drag it all around. Looking t your lit, I realized I packed 4 black shirts. Four. This is ridiculous, but closet bears similar news. Do I NEED that many boots, black shirts, jeans? Of course not. But WANT!!!!

    So, I realize I have an affliction when it comes to clothes, but I also know that they are an important part of both my identity, my sense of self, my self-esteem....So is it wrong to indulge and when does it cross the line. I suppose that is what this blog will explore, and I can't wait to be a follower!

    Love you. R

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  3. A Dozen Reflections on Inductive Wardrobing

    1) I don’t like buttons, except on cardigans or jeans, thus my confusion over the need to like blouses!
    2) Sweaters and t-shirts and variations of this type of thing are virtually all I have for tops
    3) I love it that pants don’t go to my belly-button anymore, but have to be wary of the ones that sit so low that I can’t get on the floor with the kids comfortably
    4) I got brave enough to wear a fitted tank top in public this year in 100 degree weather (bra straps showing—I wear a prosthesis so can never go without the bra—but nobody seemed to notice except my daughter, age 8, who commented that when she got bigger she hoped she was brave enough to let her bra straps show!) A whole other wardrobe “essential” is now available to me.
    5) I like to wear skirts, especially when it is hot. Summer print cotton skirts, somewhat full, that hit above the knee. Winter straight skirts (the infamous pencil skirt?!) in jeans or cords, long or above the knee with tights.
    6) I love the *idea* of the white blouse—thus the pining away for the one I gave up—but I never wore it, which is why I gave it away. I don’t think I actually like to wear white blouses--maybe it is the button thing.
    7) All my dresses except for a l/s sweater dress are sleeveless.
    8) My shoes are a little Title 9ish for my wannabe Ann Taylor LOFT/Boden wardrobe! Not sure what to do about this one given my foot injury problem...
    9) When I imagine my younger self, I usually can pick out a “good” outfit
    10) “Fun” is a helpful concept for making me feel good about myself in my clothes. “Practical and pretty” is the runner-up! If I think about these concepts when I shop I will do well (hopefully).
    11) I just rediscovered jewelry. Last year I rediscovered scarves. Will next year be hats?!
    12) I have a tendency to purchase separates I like a lot (often at deep discount…) but that don’t go with anything I have so am still faced with nothing to wear. Hmmm, something to work on.
    13) OK it is a Baker's dozen...I basically am a jeans and t-shirts kind of gal who wear skirts when it it too hot for jeans. So whatever is work wear or dress up needs to feel like jeans and a t-shirt (or maybe jammies)!

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